While the idea of a vegetarian meal doesn’t hold the horrors it would have in my earlier years, it would not be an automatic choice when selecting a meal. However, the culinary delights conjured by Chef Brett are something that should not be missed, and something to revisited.

Working at the wood fired, cast iron, beast that is his stove, a culinary Phantom of the Opera at his piano, Brett produced four excellent courses (Caprese salad with heritage tomatoes, stuffed baby bell peppers with red rice and lemon pesto, Gorgonzola gnocchi with roast walnuts and rocket, and finally shortbread with caramel ice cream floated in chocolate) that had us using our fingers to polish our dishes.

There is a ‘oneness’ with the forest, a grass track leading to the cottage, nestled amongst the towering trees. Candle light, unobtrusive, inviting to the dining area, an extension of the kitchen, dominated by the range from which, all things magical are possible. Brett’s garden provides much of what is served, with the forest adding its wealth, in this instance giant porcini mushrooms.

You need to bring your own wine, which allowed us to delve into Craig’s cellar. The star: a New Zealand Marlboro Sauvignon Blanc.